A Semester Abroad in India
Posted in Fellows on January 21st, 2010 by Emily Nguyen – Be the first to comment
Exploring Tughlaqabad with Sunil
“How was India?” my friends and classmates ask as they pass me in the hallways of Howard. After hearing that same question five times in row, I have developed a standard response: “It was chaotic, it was frustrating, it was hard, but–so far–it is the best thing I have done in my life.”
This fall semester, I spent three and half months traveling and studying abroad in India with twenty-four of my classmates. While we were there, we learned about Indian history and culture as well as the country’s modern-day social and environmental issues through field trips, lectures and independent projects. We lived in about five of India’s major metropolises and several other small and rural villages; however, the bulk of the program was centered in Delhi and Varanasi. The contrast between the culture and infrastructure between these two cities is quite astonishing, as one is a developing economic and political capital while the other is a handicraft center and key pilgrimage site for Hindus. We were able to explore the unique features of both places with help from University of London professor, Sunil Kumar and his sister Nita Kumar of the Nirman School. Sunil and Nita provided with us endless opportunities to look at the various cultures and subcultures of these two cities, such as the Sufi community in Delhi and the the silk weavers district in Varanasi.
I consider my month in Varanasi the most rewarding experience of the India program because it was where I did my home stay and independent research. In Varanasi, I spent a week living in a neighborhood called Kabir Choura with Mr. Kanhaiya Lal Mishra, his wife Mala, sons Aman and Dirage and daughter Chinkee. The Mishras are a family of musicians and dancers; Kanhaiya is a professor of music at Benaras Hindu University while his oldest son is a professional tabla player. The Mishras are also devout Hindus; therefore, I was not only able to experience Diwali (the festival of lights) in a major Hindu pilgrimage center but also through traditional Hindu activities and customs.

Saree wearing workshop for Diwali
Like most other Hindus in Varanasi, my host family adores Mother Ganga: the holy river that flows along the edge of the city. According to Hindu mythology, Gangaji was formed from the hair of Lord Shiva and can remove sins, dispense life and provide salvation for the deceased. However, Gangaji also suffers from a vast amount of pollution due to point source and non-point source human activities. Due to my interest in waste management and religion, I decided to do my independent research in Varanasi on the connections between Hindu ideas on the human-nature relationship and actual observed environmental practices towards the Ganga River. For three weeks, I surveyed Hindu residents about their feelings towards Gangaji and then talked to professors and researchers about the objective facts on Ganga pollution. My main contact was with the Sankat Mochan Foundation, an organization founded by Varanasi’s high priest and former civil engineer, Professor Veer Bhadra Mishra that combines science and faith to raise awareness of pollution in the Ganga River. During my time spent with Professor Mishra–more commonly known as Mahantji–and his colleague R.K. Mishra, I learned about a great deal about Hindu philosophy and the difficulties that they faced in motivating local residents to protect Gangaji. Some of my most memorable moments from the trip were spent at Tulsi ghat with Mahantji in his room overlooking the Ganga River.

At the banks of the Ganga River

Making an earthen bund at Young India Project
Aside from Varanasi, another noteworthy part of the program was when we stayed with the Young India Project in Penukonda. YIP is an organization started by Mr. Narinder Bedi that aims to educate rural workers about their rights to work. For about a week, we lived on Mr. Bedi’s farm, learned about India’s National Employment Guarantee Act, talked to city officials and union workers and even spent a whole day doing manual labor to earn barely fifty cents each. The entire experience was humbling and eyeopening; a week that will forever remain in my everyday thoughts.
Three and a half months ago, I did not expect that the people I met and the places I saw in India would make such a large imprint in my life. Now, as a I re-enter my fast-paced and quiet lifestyle in Portland, I am constantly reminded of India, and most of all, how fortunate I am to have the opportunities that I do here at Lewis & Clark.
-Emily Nguyen ‘11
This is our lovely volunteer team (minus me). From left: Warren, Nikki, and fellow volunteer Yoko
This is Nikki doing some intense postering!
Our handiwork in action!
